From the ASPCA:
Boredom and excess energy are two common reasons for behavior problems in dogs. This makes sense because they’re meant to lead active lives. Wild dogs spend about 80% of their waking hours hunting and scavenging for food. Domestic dogs have been helping and working alongside us for thousands of years, and most are bred for a specific purpose, such as hunting, farming or
protection. For example, retrievers and pointers were bred to locate and fetch game and water birds. Scent hounds, like coonhounds and beagles, were bred to find rabbits, foxes and other small prey. Dogs like German shepherds, collies, cattle dogs and sheepdogs were bred to herd livestock. Whether dogs were working for us or scavenging on their own, their survival
once depended on lots of exercise and problem solving. But what about now?
Today’s Job Description: Couch Potato
Today that’s all changed. Now the most common job description for dogs is Couch Potato! While
we’re away at work all day, they sleep. And when we come home, we serve them free food in a bowl—no effort required from them. They eat more calories than they can use. The result is dogs who are bored silly, often overweight and have too much energy. It’s a perfect recipe for behavior problems.
What Does Your Dog Need?
It’s not necessary to quit your job, take up duck hunting or get yourself a bunch of sheep to keep your dog out of trouble. However, we encourage you to find ways to exercise her brain and body. Read on for some fun, practical ways to enrich your dog’s life, both when you’re around and when you’re not. You’ll find that these ideas go a long way toward keeping your dog happy and easier to live with. Try out a few and see what you and your dog enjoy most.
Tips for Alone Time
Because we all lead busy lives, our dogs often end up spending a good portion of their day home alone. If you give your dog “jobs” to do when she’s by herself, she’ll be less likely to come up with her own ways to occupy her time, like unstuffing your couch, raiding the trash or chewing on your favorite pair of shoes. Plus, she’ll be less likely to enthusiastically tackle you when you come home, after she’s spent a day doing nothing but recharging her batteries!
K-9 to 5: Will Work for Food
Food puzzle toys Food puzzle toys are sturdy containers, usually made of hard rubber or plastic,
that hold food or treats inside but don’t give dogs easy access to the food. They usually have holes on each end or on the sides, and dogs must work by shaking, pawing, rolling, nibbling or licking the toy to get the food to come out. Food puzzle toys require time, patience and problem-solving—all skills that are good for your dog and will help her enjoy quiet time alone. Since our dogs’ wild counterparts spend much of their time scavenging for food, food puzzle toys offer a natural solution to pet-dog boredom. Puzzle toys also encourage chewing and licking, which can have a calming effect on dogs. Examples of food puzzle toys include KONG® Toy, the Buster® Cube, the Tricky Treat™ Ball, the Tug-a-Jug™, the Twist ‘n Treat™, the Atomic Treat Ball™ and the TreatStik®. You can find these toys online or at most major pet stores. Feed your dog at least one meal a day in a food puzzle toy to give her brain and jaws a great workout. You can also stuff these toys with your dog’s favorite treats or a little peanut butter, cottage cheese, cooked
oatmeal or yogurt. When you first introduce your dog to a food puzzle toy, make it really easy for her to empty it. She’s probably accustomed to getting her food served in a bowl, so she has some learning to do! Choose a toy with a large dispensing hole and make sure the goodies you put inside the toy are small enough to come out easily. As your dog becomes an expert, you can make it harder and harder for her to get food out of her toys. Use bigger pieces or food or, to provide an extra challenge, freeze the toys after stuffing them. You can also place the frozen toys inside a cardboard box or oatmeal tub so that your dog has to rip through the cardboard
container to get to her meal. For recipes and detailed pointers on how to stuff a KONG® food puzzle toy, please see our article, How to Stuff a KONG® Toy.
Hunting for dinner
You can make your dog hunt for her meals by hiding stuffed food puzzle toys or small piles of her kibble around your house. Hide one of your dog’s meals right before you leave her home alone, and she’ll have great fun hunting her chow while you’re away. To try a variation on this activity, scatter a couple handfuls of kibble around your yard so your dog can search for the pieces in the
grass. Most dogs love this game!
Chew Time
Dogs of all ages need to chew. Both wild and domestic dogs spend hours chewing to keep their jaws strong and their teeth clean. They also chew for fun, for stimulation and to relieve anxiety. Whether you have a puppy or an adult dog, it’s important to provide a variety of appropriate and attractive chew toys, like Nylabones® and hard rubber toys, natural marrow bones,rawhide and pig ears. Although chewing behavior is normal, dogs sometimes chew on things we don’t want them to. Giving your dog plenty of her own toys and chewies will help prevent her from gnawing on your things.
Social Opportunities
Just like people, dogs are social animals, and many enjoy spending time with members of their own species. Off-leash play with other dogs serves multiple purposes. It can give your dog opportunities to practice her social skills with other dogs, wear her out mentally and tire her physically. If your dog enjoys romping with dog buddies, give her regular opportunities to do so. Try taking her to a local dog park or doggie daycare. If you have friends or family with dogs, you can also arrange “play dates” at your respective houses.
Things to Do Together
In addition to fun activities when you’re not around, your dog also benefits from spending plenty of quality time with you. There are many fun and exciting things you and your dog can do together. Read on for some suggestions.
Get Moving
Don’t underestimate the value of a good walk or jog with your dog. Taking at least one outing per day will help keep your dog physically fit and give her opportunities to explore the world. Follow different routes and visit new places whenever you can so that your dog can experience novel smells and sights.
Games to Play
Learning how to play with your dog in ways that are enjoyable and safe for you both will greatly enhance your relationship. The games listed below will exercise your dog’s body and satisfy her deeply rooted instincts to search, chase, grab and tug. Tug-of-war Playing tug with your dog can provide a wonderful outlet for her natural canine urges to grab and pull on things with her mouth. You can also use this game to exercise your dog and teach her important lessons, such as how to listen to you when she’s excited.
Fetch: Teaching your dog to play fetch is great for a number of reasons. It requires your dog to exert a lot of physical effort—but you don’t have to! You can also use the game of fetch to teach your dog useful skills, like how to drop things when you ask her to. Show your dog a toy and then toss it a short distance. (If she doesn’t follow the toy, try a different one.) Praise her as she follows the toy. When she picks it up and starts to return to you, praise her. (If she doesn’t return to you, don’t chase her. Just encourage her or play with another toy yourself.) When your dog reaches you, position your left hand under her mouth to catch the toy. Say “Give” or “Drop it” and then put a delicious treat very close to her nose with your right hand. When she drops the toy into your left hand, give her your treat and praise her! When she’s good at fetching in the hallway, you can practice outdoors. After many repetitions your dog will learn the “Drop it” cue. Then you can stop using the treat. When you give the cue and she drops the toy, reward her by
throwing the toy again.
Find It: Giving your dog a chance to use her powerful nose can really wear her out! It’s easy to teach your dog to find hidden treats. Just put her in another room, out of sight, while you hide a few treats. When you introduce the Find It game, start out by choosing hiding spots that allow your dog to find the “hidden” treats easily. Try placing treats behind the legs of furniture, partially in view. After you’ve hidden the treats, go get your dog and say “Find it!” right before letting her into the room. Encourage her to look around for the treats. (You might have to point them out the first few times you play the Find It game.) As your dog becomes better and better at finding the treats, you can hide them in more difficult places, like behind pillows or underneath objects. You can also play Find It with your dog’s favorite toy. Follow the directions above, but hide the toy instead of treats. When your dog finds it, you can play a game of tug or fetch as a reward.
Hide-and-Seek: This game is similar to Find It—but instead of teaching your dog to hunt her favorite treats or toys, you’ll train her to search for you! Like Find It, Hide-and-Seek will exercise your dog’s mind and give her an opportunity to use her amazing sense of smell. It can also help her learn to love coming when called.
Chase: Dogs were born to chase! Try tying one of your dog’s favorite toys to the end of a sturdy rope. You can attach the other end of the rope to a stick or plastic PVC pipe. Then use the stick or pipe to drag the toy around on the ground or twirl it in the air around you so that your dog can chase it. Many dogs find this game exciting and will chase the fast-moving toy until they’re exhausted. Of course, you want to let your dog catch it at times! If you’d rather not make a toy on your own, you can purchase one, such as the DogFisher™ made by Bamboo or the Chase It® Pet Toy. You can also buy an inexpensive lunge whip from a horse tack or feed store and tie a ball or other toy to the end of the whip. Tennis balls you can buy on a rope are good for this—or put a squeaky toy in a sock and tie the sock to the end of the whip. Then twirl the whip in a big circle and let your dog chase it. Your dog can get a good workout in a relatively small space. When playing outdoors with you, your dog may enjoy chasing a stream of water from a hose. Use a sprayer attachment for maximum enjoyment. Try spraying the ground a few feet away from your dog and then rapidly moving the stream of water away from her, along the ground. Many dogs can’t resist chasing and trying to bite the water. Another unique way to satisfy your dog’s desire to chase is to purchase a bubble-blowing toy made for dogs, such as the Fetch a Bubble Big Bubble Blaster or the Bubble Buddy™. These toys produce bubbles that taste like bacon, chicken, peanut butter or barbeque!
Round-Robin Recalls: This is a fun obedience game you can play with the whole family. Have everyone spread out around your living room. Take turns calling your dog to you, and treating and happily praising her when she reaches you. Make her earn her entire dinner in a game of Round-Robin. With family members at least 20 feet apart, have one person happily say your
dog’s name and then give the cue “Come!” If your dog hesitates, don’t say “Come” again (nagging just teaches dogs to ignore you) but encourage her with clapping, slapping your thighs or making high-pitched noises. When your dog gets to you, gently grab her collar, say “Good girl!” and treat her. So that she’s ready to focus on the next person when she’s done eating, look away from your dog, and put your hands and treats behind your back. Then it’s the next person’s turn to call. Whenever one person is calling your dog, the other(s) should remain quiet and boring (treats behind back and looking away) so your dog isn’t confused about whom to go to. When your dog’s good at recalls in your living room, spread out further around the house, even where you can’t see each other. When she’s a champ at that, take the game outside into your yard or a fenced area.
Sports and Other Activities: These days there are all kinds of organized sports andactivities that you can do with your dog, including flyball, agility, musical freestyle (dancing with your dog), lure coursing, competition Frisbee (disc dog), tracking, herding, weight pulling and carting.
There’s something out there for everyone.
No Free Lunch When you and your dog have learned some new training skills, you can start a No Free Lunch program. Here’s how it works. You control all the valuable resources in your
dog’s life, such as food, water, affection, toys, walks, petting and playtime. Instead of giving these things for free, ask your dog to work for them! The work will exercise her brain and help her become more obedient. Just give your dog what she needs and wants after she does something you ask her to do. For example, if your dog wants to go on a walk, ask her to sit before you clip on her leash and open the door. If your dog wants dinner, ask her to sit-stay while you put down her bowl. If your dog wants to play a game of tug, ask her to lie down before you start the game. Your dog will happily learn to work for everything she loves in life.
Short on Time? It’s often difficult to work time with your dog into your hectic daily routine. But if you’ve got a busy schedule, you can find help. Consider the following time-saving ways to add some excitement to your dog’s life: Look into the possibility of taking your dog to a dog daycare at least once or twice a week. If you live close enough to work, consider going home to spend your lunch break with your dog. If you can’t make it home during the day, hire a dog walker to take your dog out for a stroll instead. If you have friends or family members who don’t work during the day, ask if they’d be willing to let your dog visit them while you’re at
work.
Friday, March 5, 2010
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
The 3 D's in Dog Training
Spring is here (ok, well, with the nice weather we had earlier this week it felt like it), and its time to dust off those paws and get back into training. For those of you teaching your pup a new trick or two, remembering the 3 D's of dog training will help ensure communication between you and your dog. The 3 D's are:
Distraction! Let's face it, if you learn your multiplication tables in a quiet class room, and are suddenly asked to perform in front of a noisy studio audience, you probably aren't going to do so hot. Distraction refers to all the sounds, sights, movement, smells and other exciting things in the environment that your dog is working in. All of these senses are adaptively significant to our dogs, so it behooves them to pay attention to their surroundings. When teaching your dog a new trick, start in a low distraction environment, such as your living room, that your dog is familiar with, that way he's able to better focus on you. Once you've got the desired behavior happening reliably about 85-90% of the time, then step it up. Remember, dogs are huge discriminators, so "sit pretty" in the living room doesn't automatically translate to "sit pretty" in the park. You have to generalize the cue by working on it in as many places as possible. Maybe start working in your backyard, next. Once you have success there, try the front yard. Then the side walk. Then maybe the sidewalk with another neighborhood dog walking by at a distance. Get the idea? You want to slowly increase his distraction level, but make sure he understands the cue in each context before moving forward.
Distance! Distance refers to the distance between you and your dog when you are asking for a behavior. If you've just taught your dog to "sit", and then walk 10 feet away and ask for him to sit, the chances of it happening are not too likely. Why? Because you've only taught him to sit with you directly in front of him. Now that you've moved 10 feet away, the whole scenario has changed. Just as with distraction, after your pup is responding to a cue reliably with you right next to him, slowly start to change it up. Try moving off to his left or right just a little. Turn your body slightly away from him. Take a few steps back. Remember, we need to generalize the cue, which means teaching Fido that "down" means "down" weather I'm facing him, turned away from him, bending over to tie my shoe, or 10 feet away. All of these are different pictures to your dog, so take it slowly and aim for success. Before ya know it, you'll have a rock solid command even if you are in another room of the house.
Duration! Duration refers to how long you are asking your dog to hold a position. If you're just beginning to teach your dog "stay", expecting him to stay for 5 minutes right off the bat is like asking a 6 year old to sit calmly through an insurance seminar. Your chances of success are slim to none. Start off asking for him to hold his "stay" for just 1 or 2 seconds, and slowly increase the time by 5 second increments. Try not to get greedy and go too fast, and if you notice your dog about to break position quickly reward him and tell him what a great dog he is before he has the chance to move. Set you dog up for success! The more reinforcement he gets for the desired behavior, and the less experiences he has with breaking his "stay", the less likely he will be to do so when you really need him to stay put. Duration is a really tough one for these social creatures, so take it easy on them!
One important caveat to the 3 D's : when you raise your citeria on one of the D's, drop your expectations for the other two. If you are working in a high distraction environment, lower your criteria for distance and duration. If you are working at a great distance from your dog, lower the environmental distractions and the duration of the behavior. Trying to raise all 3 at once can result in one confused dog, and a frustrated owner. So give your dog a little helping hand and only work on one "D" at a time. Set your dog up for success, and you can't loose!
Distraction! Let's face it, if you learn your multiplication tables in a quiet class room, and are suddenly asked to perform in front of a noisy studio audience, you probably aren't going to do so hot. Distraction refers to all the sounds, sights, movement, smells and other exciting things in the environment that your dog is working in. All of these senses are adaptively significant to our dogs, so it behooves them to pay attention to their surroundings. When teaching your dog a new trick, start in a low distraction environment, such as your living room, that your dog is familiar with, that way he's able to better focus on you. Once you've got the desired behavior happening reliably about 85-90% of the time, then step it up. Remember, dogs are huge discriminators, so "sit pretty" in the living room doesn't automatically translate to "sit pretty" in the park. You have to generalize the cue by working on it in as many places as possible. Maybe start working in your backyard, next. Once you have success there, try the front yard. Then the side walk. Then maybe the sidewalk with another neighborhood dog walking by at a distance. Get the idea? You want to slowly increase his distraction level, but make sure he understands the cue in each context before moving forward.
Distance! Distance refers to the distance between you and your dog when you are asking for a behavior. If you've just taught your dog to "sit", and then walk 10 feet away and ask for him to sit, the chances of it happening are not too likely. Why? Because you've only taught him to sit with you directly in front of him. Now that you've moved 10 feet away, the whole scenario has changed. Just as with distraction, after your pup is responding to a cue reliably with you right next to him, slowly start to change it up. Try moving off to his left or right just a little. Turn your body slightly away from him. Take a few steps back. Remember, we need to generalize the cue, which means teaching Fido that "down" means "down" weather I'm facing him, turned away from him, bending over to tie my shoe, or 10 feet away. All of these are different pictures to your dog, so take it slowly and aim for success. Before ya know it, you'll have a rock solid command even if you are in another room of the house.
Duration! Duration refers to how long you are asking your dog to hold a position. If you're just beginning to teach your dog "stay", expecting him to stay for 5 minutes right off the bat is like asking a 6 year old to sit calmly through an insurance seminar. Your chances of success are slim to none. Start off asking for him to hold his "stay" for just 1 or 2 seconds, and slowly increase the time by 5 second increments. Try not to get greedy and go too fast, and if you notice your dog about to break position quickly reward him and tell him what a great dog he is before he has the chance to move. Set you dog up for success! The more reinforcement he gets for the desired behavior, and the less experiences he has with breaking his "stay", the less likely he will be to do so when you really need him to stay put. Duration is a really tough one for these social creatures, so take it easy on them!
One important caveat to the 3 D's : when you raise your citeria on one of the D's, drop your expectations for the other two. If you are working in a high distraction environment, lower your criteria for distance and duration. If you are working at a great distance from your dog, lower the environmental distractions and the duration of the behavior. Trying to raise all 3 at once can result in one confused dog, and a frustrated owner. So give your dog a little helping hand and only work on one "D" at a time. Set your dog up for success, and you can't loose!
Friday, October 23, 2009
Magnuson Dog Park
On October 5th, without as much as a simple fact-check, KOMO 4 news aired a story about an alleged dog attack resulting in the death of a dog at magnuson dog park. Through talking with direct sources, local veterinarians, witnesses who were at the park that day, and animal control, I can assure you that these attacks are false. From the information we have gathered, the boxer was killed either by a car or other accident due to owner negligence, and was never even at the dog park that day. Why someone would feel the need to cover up their dog's death with an elaborate story that has created hysteria at the dog park is unknown, but it does go to prove an important point. If you do attend the dog park, always be aware of your surroundings. Keep and eye on your dog and other dogs around you. If you see rough play that makes you uncomfortable, either ask the owner of the rough-housing dog to please remove their dog, or leave the situation yourself. If you see behavior that is inappropriate, do not be afraid to notify the owner of that dog that you will call animal control if they do not remove their dog. If you see a fight break out, call animal control and let them know what you have witnessed. Give as much detail as you can. If there are others, exchange contact information with other witnesses and the owner of the injured dog. If anyone has a camera, which most cell phones today do, take photos of any injuries incurred by any dog or human victims.
We all want our local parks to be safe for everyone. Irresponsible behavior, be it a dog or human, is not to be tolerated. Never be afraid to report anything that makes you feel uncomfortable or unsafe. Seattle Animal Control can be reached at (206)386.7387, and press 7 to speak to the dispatch officer. I personally keep this number on speed dial, don't be afraid to do the same!
And, on my own personal note, if you do own a pit-bull-looking dog that frequents the dog park, be very very careful, especially at Magnuson. There have already been two accounts of frightened dog park goers assulting innocent pit bulls, one of which was only a 5 month old puppy that was kicked in the ribs. Please protect your dog, and consider another method of socialization for a short while until we can get the media to air a retraction to this story.
We all want our local parks to be safe for everyone. Irresponsible behavior, be it a dog or human, is not to be tolerated. Never be afraid to report anything that makes you feel uncomfortable or unsafe. Seattle Animal Control can be reached at (206)386.7387, and press 7 to speak to the dispatch officer. I personally keep this number on speed dial, don't be afraid to do the same!
And, on my own personal note, if you do own a pit-bull-looking dog that frequents the dog park, be very very careful, especially at Magnuson. There have already been two accounts of frightened dog park goers assulting innocent pit bulls, one of which was only a 5 month old puppy that was kicked in the ribs. Please protect your dog, and consider another method of socialization for a short while until we can get the media to air a retraction to this story.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
What To Do When You Find a Stray
Inspired by an event yesterday in which I rescued a very adorable little pup that almost got hit by a car, I decided to post a blog about what to do if you find a loose/stray dog.
A lot of dogs that have escaped from their yards or been allowed to roam free will avoid coming over to people for various reasons. Some will be extremely friendly and easy-going, some will be more fearful and stand-offish. For your safety and the dogs safety, here's a few pointers on how to attempt to call the dog over to you and safely check them for identification. Remember: always use caution when interacting with dogs you do not know. If the dog is exhibiting aggressive behavior, or you feel uncomfortable handling them, call your local animal control professionals to come out and get the dog. Give them the precise location in which you have seen the dog, a physical description, and any other information that can help them find the dog.
Getting The Dog
Do not approach the dog - he or she may view your approach as a threat and run off (potentially into traffic if you live in the city). Instead, try to make friendly, baby-talk noises to entice the dog to come to you. If you're a dork like me who has some form of dog treat on you nearly at all times, use that to help entice the dog to approach you. When the dog approaches, do not bend down or over her. This, again, is likely to frighten her and cause her to run off. Instead, let her sniff you (and take food from your hand if you have it). Have you body turned slightly to the left or right so you are not facing the dog head-on, and avoid making direct eye contact. If you have food to offer, dangle your hand loosely at your side with your hand open so she can see it. Do not try to reach your hand towards her, even to offer her a treat. If she seems comfortable with your presence, slowly kneel vertically down next to her (presuming this isn't a great dane... obviously for a large breed there may not be the need to kneel down to get closer to their tag). Do not hover over her. Slowly place your hand out flat, palm-up, under her chin to pet her. Do not try to pet the dog directly on their head or body. If she shys away, stop moving your hand and keep it still. Don't pull it back in, but instead let her sniff and become more comfortable before you try again. If she is comfortable with this, gently pet her under her chin, grazing her collar. Many dogs do not like their collars grabbed and will react if you try to do so abruptly. If you have a leash handy, make sure you have that ready before calling the dog over to you so you can attach it to her collar if she allows you to. If the dog freezes, growls, or pulls away when you touch her collar, do not attempt to grab it. If she has a tag, try and see if you can get a glimpse of the information on it without touching her collar. If you have a treat, hold it so she has to tilt her head slightly upward to get it, giving you a moment to look at her tag. If you have a leash, use this opportunity to clip it on to her collar. If the dog has no collar at all, do not under any circumstance attempt to pick the dog up or grab ahold of her. If you can loop your leash around her long enough to take her to safety, try that, otherwise call animal control.
If you have your own dog with you, do not let them greet. Even if the stray dog seems friendly, you do not know if she is vaccinated or carries any harmful diseases. If there is a tree or post nearby, tether your own dog to it (or keep them in the car if you were driving), then attempt to coax the stray over, away from your dog.
Once You've Got The Dog
If you are able to get any information off of the tag, such as a phone number, take the dog to safety and give the phone number a call. If you get a voicemail, leave a message including your phone number so the owner can call you back.
If there is no tag, or a tag with no information on it, take the dog to the nearest vet office. All veterinarian offices are equipped to scan for microchips in the event that a lost dog is brought into their clinic, and most are more than willing to help you locate the owner if the dog is microchipped. In the event that the dog is not microchipped, take her to the nearest animal shelter. Many vet offices are not set up to take in strays, but depending on the office they may or may not offer to take the dog in. Shelters are often the first place owners will check when they realize their beloved dog is nowhere to be found. Most shelters have a holding period for stray dogs before they are put up for adoption to give the owner ample time to call and come claim their pet. If you have any interest in the dog yourself, ask that you be contacted if she is not reclaimed. Depending on the capacity of the shelter, they may or may not be able to house her for very long once the holding period is up. Alternatively, if you have the ability to house the dog yourself and don't mind doing so, you can call the shelter and vet clinics in the area and give them a description of the dog, as well as your contact info so the owner can get ahold of you should they come looking for their dog. If you do take the dog in, be prepared to care for her if the owners don't call.
Again, if at any point you feel uncomfortable with interacting with the stray dog, call animal control. They have the proper equipment and are trained specifically for this purpose. Its much better to call them than to put yourself in harms way.
That said, most of the strays I've personally encounted have been neutral or very friendly in temperament and have not posed any threat to me leashing them up and getting them home. Which brings us to... (drum roll, please)... prevention! Accidents do happen, but we can do our best to try to make sure they don't.
1. Always have your dog leashed when she is not contained in your home or in a fully-fenced backyard. Never open the door without your dog on a leash or properly trained to wait before exiting the house. Leash laws exist for a reason, obey them.
Seattle's law states your dog must be on a leash of 8 ft. or shorter at all times in public, and must be properly contained on the property by a fence or tie-out when in your yard.
2. Have current tags on your dogs at all times. Accidents happen despite our best efforts, and when they do, we want someone to be able to identify our pets and get them home safely to us.
3. Microchip your pets. Collars can fall off. Microchips don't. A microchip can save your dog's life if they ever get loose and are turned in to the shelter.
4. Secure your backyard if you have one. Make sure every crack in the fence is filled, and there are no secret exit points your dog could escape from. If you don't have a fence, make sure you have a sturdy tie-out made of dog-proof material. Many local pet stores sell chew-proof tie-outs and long lines (which come in handy for camping, too!) Never leave your dog outside unattended for an extended period of time.
5. Train a solid recall command. Once your dog has accidentally slipped out of her collar or leash, your best ammo is a well-trained dog.
(disclaimer: I use the term "she" as a reference point to the dog. The entirety of this post applies to a dog of either gender, and all breeds)
A lot of dogs that have escaped from their yards or been allowed to roam free will avoid coming over to people for various reasons. Some will be extremely friendly and easy-going, some will be more fearful and stand-offish. For your safety and the dogs safety, here's a few pointers on how to attempt to call the dog over to you and safely check them for identification. Remember: always use caution when interacting with dogs you do not know. If the dog is exhibiting aggressive behavior, or you feel uncomfortable handling them, call your local animal control professionals to come out and get the dog. Give them the precise location in which you have seen the dog, a physical description, and any other information that can help them find the dog.
Getting The Dog
Do not approach the dog - he or she may view your approach as a threat and run off (potentially into traffic if you live in the city). Instead, try to make friendly, baby-talk noises to entice the dog to come to you. If you're a dork like me who has some form of dog treat on you nearly at all times, use that to help entice the dog to approach you. When the dog approaches, do not bend down or over her. This, again, is likely to frighten her and cause her to run off. Instead, let her sniff you (and take food from your hand if you have it). Have you body turned slightly to the left or right so you are not facing the dog head-on, and avoid making direct eye contact. If you have food to offer, dangle your hand loosely at your side with your hand open so she can see it. Do not try to reach your hand towards her, even to offer her a treat. If she seems comfortable with your presence, slowly kneel vertically down next to her (presuming this isn't a great dane... obviously for a large breed there may not be the need to kneel down to get closer to their tag). Do not hover over her. Slowly place your hand out flat, palm-up, under her chin to pet her. Do not try to pet the dog directly on their head or body. If she shys away, stop moving your hand and keep it still. Don't pull it back in, but instead let her sniff and become more comfortable before you try again. If she is comfortable with this, gently pet her under her chin, grazing her collar. Many dogs do not like their collars grabbed and will react if you try to do so abruptly. If you have a leash handy, make sure you have that ready before calling the dog over to you so you can attach it to her collar if she allows you to. If the dog freezes, growls, or pulls away when you touch her collar, do not attempt to grab it. If she has a tag, try and see if you can get a glimpse of the information on it without touching her collar. If you have a treat, hold it so she has to tilt her head slightly upward to get it, giving you a moment to look at her tag. If you have a leash, use this opportunity to clip it on to her collar. If the dog has no collar at all, do not under any circumstance attempt to pick the dog up or grab ahold of her. If you can loop your leash around her long enough to take her to safety, try that, otherwise call animal control.
If you have your own dog with you, do not let them greet. Even if the stray dog seems friendly, you do not know if she is vaccinated or carries any harmful diseases. If there is a tree or post nearby, tether your own dog to it (or keep them in the car if you were driving), then attempt to coax the stray over, away from your dog.
Once You've Got The Dog
If you are able to get any information off of the tag, such as a phone number, take the dog to safety and give the phone number a call. If you get a voicemail, leave a message including your phone number so the owner can call you back.
If there is no tag, or a tag with no information on it, take the dog to the nearest vet office. All veterinarian offices are equipped to scan for microchips in the event that a lost dog is brought into their clinic, and most are more than willing to help you locate the owner if the dog is microchipped. In the event that the dog is not microchipped, take her to the nearest animal shelter. Many vet offices are not set up to take in strays, but depending on the office they may or may not offer to take the dog in. Shelters are often the first place owners will check when they realize their beloved dog is nowhere to be found. Most shelters have a holding period for stray dogs before they are put up for adoption to give the owner ample time to call and come claim their pet. If you have any interest in the dog yourself, ask that you be contacted if she is not reclaimed. Depending on the capacity of the shelter, they may or may not be able to house her for very long once the holding period is up. Alternatively, if you have the ability to house the dog yourself and don't mind doing so, you can call the shelter and vet clinics in the area and give them a description of the dog, as well as your contact info so the owner can get ahold of you should they come looking for their dog. If you do take the dog in, be prepared to care for her if the owners don't call.
Again, if at any point you feel uncomfortable with interacting with the stray dog, call animal control. They have the proper equipment and are trained specifically for this purpose. Its much better to call them than to put yourself in harms way.
That said, most of the strays I've personally encounted have been neutral or very friendly in temperament and have not posed any threat to me leashing them up and getting them home. Which brings us to... (drum roll, please)... prevention! Accidents do happen, but we can do our best to try to make sure they don't.
1. Always have your dog leashed when she is not contained in your home or in a fully-fenced backyard. Never open the door without your dog on a leash or properly trained to wait before exiting the house. Leash laws exist for a reason, obey them.
Seattle's law states your dog must be on a leash of 8 ft. or shorter at all times in public, and must be properly contained on the property by a fence or tie-out when in your yard.
2. Have current tags on your dogs at all times. Accidents happen despite our best efforts, and when they do, we want someone to be able to identify our pets and get them home safely to us.
3. Microchip your pets. Collars can fall off. Microchips don't. A microchip can save your dog's life if they ever get loose and are turned in to the shelter.
4. Secure your backyard if you have one. Make sure every crack in the fence is filled, and there are no secret exit points your dog could escape from. If you don't have a fence, make sure you have a sturdy tie-out made of dog-proof material. Many local pet stores sell chew-proof tie-outs and long lines (which come in handy for camping, too!) Never leave your dog outside unattended for an extended period of time.
5. Train a solid recall command. Once your dog has accidentally slipped out of her collar or leash, your best ammo is a well-trained dog.
(disclaimer: I use the term "she" as a reference point to the dog. The entirety of this post applies to a dog of either gender, and all breeds)
Saturday, May 2, 2009
Deaf Dog 101: Living With and Training Your Deaf Dog
Deaf Dog 101 by Stormi King, CCS
Smart Paws Training and Behavior Solutions
www.smartpawsseattle.com
Repeat after me, deaf dogs are NOT harder to train than hearing dogs. They are not inherently skittish, "difficult", nor do they automatically startle or become aggressive when they reach a certain age. Like any dog, they simply need to be well socialized and exposed to as many new situations as possible as a young pup. Am I saying don't adopt an adult deaf dog? Absolutely not! They can make just as excellent companions as a puppy, and there are certainly more of them out there that need homes.
Special considerations for a deaf dog
Desensitization to reduce startling
From deafdogs.org: "These exercises are nothing more than training your dog how to handle, and respond to, various situations. They are no different than teaching a dog to sit. Your dog's personality will determine how much time you need to spend on these exercises. Some dogs are easy-going and fairly unflappable. Others are more sensitive, and will require more work. To desensitize a deaf dog to the startle effect of being touched unexpectedly, begin by walking up behind the dog when he isn't looking. Gently touch the dog, then immediately pop a treat in the dog's mouth when he turns around. The dog quickly associates good things (i.e., the treat) with being touched unexpectedly, and learns to respond happily. To condition your deaf dog to wake easily in response to a gentle touch, start by first placing your hand in front of the sleeping dog's nose, allowing him to smell that you are near. Next lightly touch the dog on the shoulder or back, pretend you are trying to touch only one or two hairs with your fingertips. Then gently stroke the dog with two fingertips, then with your entire hand. Most deaf dogs will awaken during some part of this exercise. When they open their eyes, their owner's smiling face, and perhaps even a treat rewards them. In a matter of weeks, the dog becomes accustomed to waking up when the owner places a hand in front of his nose, or lightly touches his shoulder or back. Waking up becomes a gentle, positive experience. As a deaf dog matures, he gains self-confidence and experience in a wide variety of situations. With many dogs, the likelihood of being startled generally decreases with age."
Getting your deaf dog's attention
Seeing as how you can't just yell "hey, fido!", you must get creative about getting your pups attention. As the joke goes "when the dog doesn't come, the deaf dog owner 'waves louder'". Indoors, if your floor allows for it, you can often stomp your foot, sending vibrations thru the floor, to get the dog's attention. If you are in a small enough space (this will work in a living room, but perhaps not in an auditorium), clap your hands as hard as you can. More than likely, the dog will pick up on the vibration caused by the clap. If your dog is not facing completely away from you, you can try waving your arms to attract attention. Note: you are a deaf dog owner. You can't be afraid to look like an idiot while talking to your dog
Outdoors, I would recommend always having your pup on a reliable leash unless in an entirely closed off area. If in a fenced in yard, check for potential holes in the fence or areas the dog could dig out. Once they've worked they're escape artist tactics, it can be difficult to get their attention, and, if you live in the city, it can be very dangerous to your dog. Long lines (you can buy them at pet stores, or even make your own with a sturdy rope and clip) are an excellent way to give your pup a little bit of freedom without being entirely out of your control. Most cities have leash laws that include maximum lengths, so be sure to check with your local laws to make sure your long line is in compliance.
Leave-it in real life
While on your walk, Fido spots a wrapper with half a hamburger in it. You don't want him to eat it, because who knows where that thing's been, but his eyes are already dead set on it and getting his attention seems futile. What do you do? This is a problem that you will encounter at some point. And since we can't actively yell "leave it" when the dog is eyeballing something we don't want him to have, it pretty much renders the command useless in real-life situations. So how do we combat this? There are a couple of different ways.
You can teach a good "watch me" command, and anytime you see a potential hazard in the distance, be it food on the ground, another dog, or anything you don’t want your dog getting into, have your dog "watch me" before he see's the object and as you roll on past it. To begin teaching the “watch me” command, start in a low distraction environment. Starting in a park where there are a million distractions is too much to ask of a dog who is just learning. Hold a treat, or anything your dog truly desires off to your side, clear of the path to your eyes. Tell him “watch me” (use whatever hand signal you feel is most comfortable), and wait. Only give the cue once, and don’t try to coax him in to looking at you. You want him to be conscious of his behavior without manipulation. The moment he looks into your eyes, give him a thumbs up (or whatever your chosen marker is) and give him the treat. His glance may only be that of a split second, so watch closely. It may take a bit of patience on your part to begin with, but after relatively few repititions, you’ll see a light bulb go off. He’s learning that all he has to do to get what he wants is to look at you when you ask him to! Easy, right? Once he’s got the idea down, generalize the command. This means start adding different value treats and objects he’s watching you to earn, taking it to different locations, practice giving him the cue with your body in different positions in relation to his, building up the duration of his watch, and slowly building up the strength of your “watch me” to be useful in real life situations. Before he’s allowed to greet his dog-pal on a walk, ask him to “watch me” first. After repetitions of this game, his initial instinct when passing other dogs on the sidewalk will be to look at you before going to greet.
Another tactic is, once you have your pup walking nicely on leash, you can work on distraction training to "proof" the dog from going after tempting objects even when he does spot them. This is similar to the “watch me”, although there isn’t a cue involved. To begin, teach him the game of "red light, green light", which means, dogs pulls=you stop. This is also a portion of teaching general loose-leash walking, and teaches the dog that if he pulls, it doesn't get him anywhere. Once you have a 100% success rate in a low distraction environment, take it outside! Start leaving low-value items just outside of your pup's reach. If he tries to go for it, immediately put on the brakes. When he looks back at you, TREAT TREAT TREAT!! Keep upping the value of the "illegal" item (in other words, start with something that the dog shows little interest in, and slowly increase to something he's got a great deal of interest in). Always praise and treat when he ignores the illegal item!! Do your best to avoid slip ups where he actually gets the illegal item, because this will reinforce the undesired behavior of picking up the foreign object. Once you have 100% success rate with the illegal item out of reach, take it up a notch and walk past the object within reach. Keep an eye on your pooch, and if he goes for the object, be ready with a tasty treat and a gentle butt-tap to interrupt and redirect him with. Eventually, you'll have a pup that sees a steak slathered in BBQ sauce with a sign saying "eat me" on the sidewalk, and he'll walk politely on by.
The convenient part of having a deaf dog!
*Other dogs bark at him on the street, he hasn't a clue.
*You can make all kinds of noise while your dog is sleeping without worrying that he'll wake up. *You get the pleasure of not having to deal with squeeky toys, and if you kill the squeaker (which I do for sanity's sake!), your dog doesn't care.
*You have a dog that’s attentive to your every move.
*You can talk to your dog even when you've got a sore throat.
*You get to skip the transition step in training from hand signal to vocal cue.
*Fireworks are a-OKAY!
Training
Luring is your new favorite friend. If you have a food motivated pup, you can lure train a deaf dog to do just about anything. Again, this is really no different than training a hearing dog to sit, lie down, stand or come. You can use any hand signal you want for the cues, I personally prefer the faded lure signal as opposed to the ASL sign for a certain command. It’s easier to transition, and you don't have to worry about having both hands free to talk to your dog.
Ex of the faded lure hand signal: To teach a dog "sit" start with a treat in your hand at the the dogs nose. Slow lift the treat up and slightly backwards (think of it as shifting a car) until the dog's bottom hits the ground. Mark the behavior (for deaf dogs a quick thumbs up works great!), and treat. When you have 100% success, and the dog is even anticipating the signal, turn your hand so your palm is facing upwards at about waist level. Push your hand up slightly to simulate the lure. Treat from the opposite hand. It make take a few transitional steps in-between (slowly changing your hand position from in front of the dog's nose to above the dogs head), but eventually your signal will be a short upward movement of your flat palm moving upwards.
For visual examples: http://deafdogs.org/training/signs.php
Vibrating collars: These are not to be confused with shock collars that administer an aversive punishment. They are collars that go around your dogs neck that emit a very light vibration in order to get the dog's attention. When conditioned properly, they can be wonderful tools as an attention getter, but when used improperly, they do have their fall-backs. I personally don't favor the use, because A. there are opportunities for the collar to accidentally shock the dog if ever there is a short, B. they're very heavy in weight and C. the main use for such a tool is when the dog is off leash, which, in theory, your deaf dog will never be off-leash in an uncontrolled environment. I much prefer the option of training the dog to "check in" during play, or physically going over to the dog if there is any need to get his attention. Its very easy to accidentally build a negative association with the vibrating collar. All you have to do is "page" him once to leave play, and he could quickly associate the vibration with "uhoh! play is over!", and run away instead of coming over to you. When training your pup to "check in", always be ready with some super yummy goodies to praise him for doing so!
Training a deaf dog is easy, whether you have experience or not. The biggest key is, again, you must have a sense of humor to be caught waving and acting like a buffoon in public while teaching your deaf dog.
For some fun, deaf dog humor: http://deafdogs.org/faq/humor.php
Smart Paws Training and Behavior Solutions
www.smartpawsseattle.com
Repeat after me, deaf dogs are NOT harder to train than hearing dogs. They are not inherently skittish, "difficult", nor do they automatically startle or become aggressive when they reach a certain age. Like any dog, they simply need to be well socialized and exposed to as many new situations as possible as a young pup. Am I saying don't adopt an adult deaf dog? Absolutely not! They can make just as excellent companions as a puppy, and there are certainly more of them out there that need homes.
Special considerations for a deaf dog
Desensitization to reduce startling
From deafdogs.org: "These exercises are nothing more than training your dog how to handle, and respond to, various situations. They are no different than teaching a dog to sit. Your dog's personality will determine how much time you need to spend on these exercises. Some dogs are easy-going and fairly unflappable. Others are more sensitive, and will require more work. To desensitize a deaf dog to the startle effect of being touched unexpectedly, begin by walking up behind the dog when he isn't looking. Gently touch the dog, then immediately pop a treat in the dog's mouth when he turns around. The dog quickly associates good things (i.e., the treat) with being touched unexpectedly, and learns to respond happily. To condition your deaf dog to wake easily in response to a gentle touch, start by first placing your hand in front of the sleeping dog's nose, allowing him to smell that you are near. Next lightly touch the dog on the shoulder or back, pretend you are trying to touch only one or two hairs with your fingertips. Then gently stroke the dog with two fingertips, then with your entire hand. Most deaf dogs will awaken during some part of this exercise. When they open their eyes, their owner's smiling face, and perhaps even a treat rewards them. In a matter of weeks, the dog becomes accustomed to waking up when the owner places a hand in front of his nose, or lightly touches his shoulder or back. Waking up becomes a gentle, positive experience. As a deaf dog matures, he gains self-confidence and experience in a wide variety of situations. With many dogs, the likelihood of being startled generally decreases with age."
Getting your deaf dog's attention
Seeing as how you can't just yell "hey, fido!", you must get creative about getting your pups attention. As the joke goes "when the dog doesn't come, the deaf dog owner 'waves louder'". Indoors, if your floor allows for it, you can often stomp your foot, sending vibrations thru the floor, to get the dog's attention. If you are in a small enough space (this will work in a living room, but perhaps not in an auditorium), clap your hands as hard as you can. More than likely, the dog will pick up on the vibration caused by the clap. If your dog is not facing completely away from you, you can try waving your arms to attract attention. Note: you are a deaf dog owner. You can't be afraid to look like an idiot while talking to your dog
Outdoors, I would recommend always having your pup on a reliable leash unless in an entirely closed off area. If in a fenced in yard, check for potential holes in the fence or areas the dog could dig out. Once they've worked they're escape artist tactics, it can be difficult to get their attention, and, if you live in the city, it can be very dangerous to your dog. Long lines (you can buy them at pet stores, or even make your own with a sturdy rope and clip) are an excellent way to give your pup a little bit of freedom without being entirely out of your control. Most cities have leash laws that include maximum lengths, so be sure to check with your local laws to make sure your long line is in compliance.
Leave-it in real life
While on your walk, Fido spots a wrapper with half a hamburger in it. You don't want him to eat it, because who knows where that thing's been, but his eyes are already dead set on it and getting his attention seems futile. What do you do? This is a problem that you will encounter at some point. And since we can't actively yell "leave it" when the dog is eyeballing something we don't want him to have, it pretty much renders the command useless in real-life situations. So how do we combat this? There are a couple of different ways.
You can teach a good "watch me" command, and anytime you see a potential hazard in the distance, be it food on the ground, another dog, or anything you don’t want your dog getting into, have your dog "watch me" before he see's the object and as you roll on past it. To begin teaching the “watch me” command, start in a low distraction environment. Starting in a park where there are a million distractions is too much to ask of a dog who is just learning. Hold a treat, or anything your dog truly desires off to your side, clear of the path to your eyes. Tell him “watch me” (use whatever hand signal you feel is most comfortable), and wait. Only give the cue once, and don’t try to coax him in to looking at you. You want him to be conscious of his behavior without manipulation. The moment he looks into your eyes, give him a thumbs up (or whatever your chosen marker is) and give him the treat. His glance may only be that of a split second, so watch closely. It may take a bit of patience on your part to begin with, but after relatively few repititions, you’ll see a light bulb go off. He’s learning that all he has to do to get what he wants is to look at you when you ask him to! Easy, right? Once he’s got the idea down, generalize the command. This means start adding different value treats and objects he’s watching you to earn, taking it to different locations, practice giving him the cue with your body in different positions in relation to his, building up the duration of his watch, and slowly building up the strength of your “watch me” to be useful in real life situations. Before he’s allowed to greet his dog-pal on a walk, ask him to “watch me” first. After repetitions of this game, his initial instinct when passing other dogs on the sidewalk will be to look at you before going to greet.
Another tactic is, once you have your pup walking nicely on leash, you can work on distraction training to "proof" the dog from going after tempting objects even when he does spot them. This is similar to the “watch me”, although there isn’t a cue involved. To begin, teach him the game of "red light, green light", which means, dogs pulls=you stop. This is also a portion of teaching general loose-leash walking, and teaches the dog that if he pulls, it doesn't get him anywhere. Once you have a 100% success rate in a low distraction environment, take it outside! Start leaving low-value items just outside of your pup's reach. If he tries to go for it, immediately put on the brakes. When he looks back at you, TREAT TREAT TREAT!! Keep upping the value of the "illegal" item (in other words, start with something that the dog shows little interest in, and slowly increase to something he's got a great deal of interest in). Always praise and treat when he ignores the illegal item!! Do your best to avoid slip ups where he actually gets the illegal item, because this will reinforce the undesired behavior of picking up the foreign object. Once you have 100% success rate with the illegal item out of reach, take it up a notch and walk past the object within reach. Keep an eye on your pooch, and if he goes for the object, be ready with a tasty treat and a gentle butt-tap to interrupt and redirect him with. Eventually, you'll have a pup that sees a steak slathered in BBQ sauce with a sign saying "eat me" on the sidewalk, and he'll walk politely on by.
The convenient part of having a deaf dog!
*Other dogs bark at him on the street, he hasn't a clue.
*You can make all kinds of noise while your dog is sleeping without worrying that he'll wake up. *You get the pleasure of not having to deal with squeeky toys, and if you kill the squeaker (which I do for sanity's sake!), your dog doesn't care.
*You have a dog that’s attentive to your every move.
*You can talk to your dog even when you've got a sore throat.
*You get to skip the transition step in training from hand signal to vocal cue.
*Fireworks are a-OKAY!
Training
Luring is your new favorite friend. If you have a food motivated pup, you can lure train a deaf dog to do just about anything. Again, this is really no different than training a hearing dog to sit, lie down, stand or come. You can use any hand signal you want for the cues, I personally prefer the faded lure signal as opposed to the ASL sign for a certain command. It’s easier to transition, and you don't have to worry about having both hands free to talk to your dog.
Ex of the faded lure hand signal: To teach a dog "sit" start with a treat in your hand at the the dogs nose. Slow lift the treat up and slightly backwards (think of it as shifting a car) until the dog's bottom hits the ground. Mark the behavior (for deaf dogs a quick thumbs up works great!), and treat. When you have 100% success, and the dog is even anticipating the signal, turn your hand so your palm is facing upwards at about waist level. Push your hand up slightly to simulate the lure. Treat from the opposite hand. It make take a few transitional steps in-between (slowly changing your hand position from in front of the dog's nose to above the dogs head), but eventually your signal will be a short upward movement of your flat palm moving upwards.
For visual examples: http://deafdogs.org/training/signs.php
Vibrating collars: These are not to be confused with shock collars that administer an aversive punishment. They are collars that go around your dogs neck that emit a very light vibration in order to get the dog's attention. When conditioned properly, they can be wonderful tools as an attention getter, but when used improperly, they do have their fall-backs. I personally don't favor the use, because A. there are opportunities for the collar to accidentally shock the dog if ever there is a short, B. they're very heavy in weight and C. the main use for such a tool is when the dog is off leash, which, in theory, your deaf dog will never be off-leash in an uncontrolled environment. I much prefer the option of training the dog to "check in" during play, or physically going over to the dog if there is any need to get his attention. Its very easy to accidentally build a negative association with the vibrating collar. All you have to do is "page" him once to leave play, and he could quickly associate the vibration with "uhoh! play is over!", and run away instead of coming over to you. When training your pup to "check in", always be ready with some super yummy goodies to praise him for doing so!
Training a deaf dog is easy, whether you have experience or not. The biggest key is, again, you must have a sense of humor to be caught waving and acting like a buffoon in public while teaching your deaf dog.
For some fun, deaf dog humor: http://deafdogs.org/faq/humor.php
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